A high SPF and a moderate price tag—that’s how Americans typically choose a sunscreen. We see 50+ on a label and trust it to be effective in protecting our skin. Here’s a surprise: Consumer Reports, the Food and Drug Administration and many other credible resources have found that our beliefs about SPF, and sun protection in general, aren’t the most reliable measure of how much protection we are actually getting. In fact, we are putting our faith in products that may be doing more harm than good.

Many people wouldn’t think twice about not protecting their skin, especially in spring and summer months. There is a wide variety of products and options for anyone in the market for sun protection; however, we hardly question what’s behind the label. Ever see SPF on a label and just think, “Yeah, I know I need to be using that”? What about, “Okay, so what is actually in this?” or “What the heck am I putting on my skin?” Maybe some of us don’t even know what “SPF” stands for or how it works. Let’s take a look.

What Does “SPF” Mean?

“SPF” stands for sun protection factor. This is the familiar number we see on things like sunscreen, makeup and lotion. The number is a rating used to measure the amount of time it takes for exposed skin to burn. SPF ratings are given to products as a measure of how well a sun protection product guards against ultraviolet B (UVB) rays, the main cause of sunburn and a contributor to skin cancer. All sunscreens are tested and then labeled with the appropriate SPF value. Higher SPF values are supposed to provide greater sunburn protection. It is important to note here that SPF is only relating to the effectiveness of a product to protect against UVB rays. UVA rays pierce the skin more deeply than UVB—we will touch more on this later.

Higher SPF Numbers Don’t Mean “Safer”

A popular misconception is that the higher the SPF, the more effective it is at protecting your skin from sun damage. However, because of the variety in types of products as well as intensity of sun, there is a natural variance in levels of protection. Ultra-high SPF claims are frequently used on packaging, but the U.S. FDA hasn’t approved modern sunscreen ingredients that would do a better job of broad-spectrum protection. A lot of us would be surprised to find out that in other developed countries, SPF is usually capped at 50.

As far as labeling, we tend to skim over the term “broad spectrum.” It is intentionally included for a very important reason that we should not overlook. Remember the distinction between SPF ratings and UVB rays? Well, products that pass the broad-spectrum test can demonstrate that they also provide UVA protection. Therefore, under the label requirements, sunscreens labeled “Broad Spectrum SPF [value]” indicate protection from both UVA and UVB radiation. Not all sunscreens are broad spectrum, so it is important to look for it on the label. Broad spectrum provides protection with a chemical barrier that absorbs or reflects UV radiation before it can damage the skin (again, we will get to those chemicals in a moment).

The FDA recommends using broad-spectrum sunscreens with SPF values of 15 or higher regularly and as directed. In the same vein, as of July 2019, Consumer Reports—which has tested a multitude of sun protection products—has its SPF recommendation at SPF 40. Again, recommendations vary between sources; this is to show that “more” doesn’t always mean “better” when it comes to SPF.

How Sunscreen Works

We know that there are two forms of sunrays: UVA and UVB. UVA rays are present throughout the daylight hours, even on cloudy days, while UVB rays are strongest from 10AM to 4PM. So how do we protect our skin against radiation? You guessed it—sunscreen!

Sunscreen helps to filter out UV radiation using a combination of two main types of active ingredients: inorganic particles (which form a physical barrier, reflecting or scattering UV waves) and organic components (which are responsible for the absorption of UV rays, releasing their energy as heat).

Ingredients

The basic ingredients in sunscreens are often similar. Just like any drug, there are active ingredients and inactive ingredients in sunscreen. Typically, active ingredients are the ones protecting your skin from the sun’s harmful UV rays, while inactive ingredients are all the other ingredients that may be used in formulating sunscreens.

Some commonly found ingredients are:

• Aminobenzoic acid
• Avobenzone
• Cinoxate
• Dioxybenzone
• Homosalate
• Meradimate
• Octocrylene
• Octinoxate
• Octisalate
• Oxybenzone
• Padimate O
• Ensulizole
• Sulisobenzone
• Titanium dioxide
• Trolamine salicylate
• Zinc oxide

Price has almost nothing to do with the effectiveness of the product you choose when it comes to sunscreen. High price tags are normally associated with the cosmetic nature of a product, or how it feels on your skin. Although most of these ingredients sit on the surface of the skin, reflecting harsh UV rays, there is evidence that at least some active ingredients may be absorbed through the skin and enter the body.

Chemical Concerns

On the topic of ingredients, a few commonly used chemicals have brought up questionable reviews. As of 2019, the FDA has called for more research on the safety and effectiveness of 12 common chemical sunscreen ingredients, including oxybenzone, avobenzone, homosalate, octinoxate, octisalate and octocrylene. Of these 12, the one most often flagged as potentially worrisome is oxybenzone.

Oxybenzone has been widely used in sunscreens because of its effectiveness in protecting against both UVA and UVB rays. There are concerns about it because of its absorption rate into the bloodstream. When absorbed, it acts like estrogen in the body and in studies has been linked to abnormal sperm function in men and endometriosis in women. Oxybenzone also acts as a skin allergen in a significant number of people.

Other concerning chemicals include titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, which are used in mineral or “natural” sunscreen products. These don’t warrant the same health concerns as chemical sunscreen ingredients such as oxybenzone because they sit on the surface of the skin and aren’t absorbed. However, Consumer Reports and the FDA both note that they don’t necessarily protect the skin as well as sunscreens with chemical ingredients. Most concerns with these have to do with the safety of inhaling particles, but researchers say the benefits of sunscreens “outweigh potential risks from their ingredients.”

Application

A surefire way to get the most out of any sunscreen you choose is to use it correctly. Regardless of the SPF, it is recommended by the FDA and the Skin Cancer Foundation to follow these guidelines when applying sunscreen:

• Apply the sunscreen 15 to 30 minutes before going outside.
• Use 2 or 3 tablespoons to cover your body.
• Make sure you reapply every 2 hours (and more often if you’re sweating or jumping in and out of the water).
• If you use a sunscreen spray, spray yourself twice to get the spots you missed.
• Avoid storing sunscreen in a hot car, as it may become less effective more quickly.
• Everyone, including babies six months and older and people of any skin tone, needs to use sunscreen.

Types

There are many different forms of sun protection on the market, including lotions, creams, sticks, gels, oils, butters, pastes and sprays. It is important to note that nonprescription sunscreen products in the form of wipes, towelettes, powders, body washes and shampoos have not been authorized by the FDA. It is also important to note that there is no such thing as “waterproof” sunscreen. All sunscreens eventually wash off. Per the FDA, “Sunscreens labeled ‘water resistant’ are required to be tested according to the required SPF test procedure. The labels are required to state whether the sunscreen remains effective for 40 minutes or 80 minutes when swimming or sweating, and all sunscreens must provide directions on when to reapply.”

A great way to find out if you are using a good sunscreen or if you are in the market for a new product is to check for the Skin Cancer Foundation’s Seal of Recommendation. The seal is widely accepted as a symbol of safe and effective sun protection that is recognized by consumers worldwide. If you can’t find one of these products, Consumer Reports has done extensive testing to put together a buying guide for consumers to use for free.

There are so many different products out there, which is why it is so important to do your research before putting something in or on your body. This post is just one more step in the right direction toward your healthiest and happiest skin! We hope you found it useful.

If you liked what you read, you will love…

By Morgan Kline

Hi, it’s Morgan! I’m here to fill up your cup with my weekly recap of Coffee & Kettlebells. I had the amazing opportunity to sit down with Ashley George, the author and founder of the Wonder and Wear blog.

Ashley and I chatted all about the skin issues women often face at different stages in their lives, especially after pregnancy. When Ashley experienced frequent breakouts post-baby, it led her to discover the world of clean beauty, which is now one of her biggest passions!

Before even leaving home in the morning, the average woman is potentially exposed to over 100 (largely unregulated) chemicals found in hair products, soap, cosmetics and other personal care items. “Our skin is our biggest organ,” Ashley says. “There are so many toxins and chemical that we’re putting into our bodies through our skincare and beauty products that we need to become aware of. There are 1,400 ingredients banned in Europe and only 11 in the United States!”

Ashley taught me that the two biggest ingredients to look out for—and stay far away from—are parabens and fragrances. Parabens are a class of widely used preservatives found in shampoos and other hair products, pharmaceuticals and cosmetics. They’ve been linked to some scary side effects, including hormone disruption, early puberty in children and potentially even forms of cancer.

Fragrances are another ingredient Ashley warns against. “Under that one word, they can hide over 100 different harmful ingredients!” she says. The lack of a specific description often prevents people from knowing what’s actually in the products they’re using. Fragrances are found in many household cleaners, laundry detergents, shampoos, perfumes, sunscreens and cosmetics, and they’ve been linked to allergies and side effects like hormone disruption.

My biggest takeaway from sitting down with Ashley is how important it is to read the labels on my beauty and skincare products! I’m already an avid reader of nutrition labels, and Ashley reminded me why it’s important to pay attention to product ingredient labels as well. “We care so much about the ingredients that go into our foods but don’t think about the ingredients that are put into our products,” she says. “Either way, they end up in our body!”

Ashley’s top skincare and beauty tips:

1. Avoid hidden toxins in your beauty and skincare products by finding companies you can fully trust. Ashley’s top pick—it’s the only brand she uses—is Beautycounter. “Once I had kids my skin went crazy, experiencing terrible hormonal acne,” she told me.

“I tried everything to calm it down, from testing hundreds of different products to seeing different dermatologists, and nothing worked until I switched to using Beautycounter products exclusively. I couldn’t tell you how passionate I am about this company. Their products are safe, trustworthy and have completely changed my skin for the better.”

2. Use facial oils. Most people think that using oil will worsen a condition like acne. But adding oils to your skincare routine may actually help banish blemishes, prevent wrinkles, calm rashes and redness as well as shrink enlarged pores. What are Ashley’s go-to facial oils? “Beautycounter’s No. 3 Balancing Facial Oil and No. 1 Brightening Facial Oil have dramatically improved the condition of my skin,” she says.

3. Download the EWG Healthy Living app. “When shopping, use the EWG app to easily scan all of your skincare and beauty products and receive a rating,” Ashley says. “It’s the perfect cheat sheet to knowing whether or not a product contains high-quality, clean ingredients.”

4. Incorporate clean skincare products into your life slowly. Dumping all of your products at once is not only wasteful—it will be very expensive to replace them at one time! “Wait until you run out of a product,” Ashley recommends. “Rather than buying it again, simply swap it for a healthy alternative. Continue to do this with every product you use and slowly you will build a healthy skincare collection.”

5. Establish a skincare routine and see a difference in the quality of your skin. Make it a priority to wipe off your makeup and cleanse your face every night before bed. Ashley’s skincare routine includes washing her face with Beautycounter’s Cleansing Balm and Charcoal Cleansing Bar. “I use the Cleansing Balm to remove my makeup or sometimes leave it on overnight to really break down oils, dirt and impurities,” she explains. “The Charcoal Bar is perfect for cleaning my skin without drying it out, giving me a clearer, smoother and brighter-looking complexion.”

6. Allow yourself permission to take 10 minutes of your morning for self-care and feel more confident throughout your entire day. Many of us feel better about ourselves when we feel put together. “If you feel like you are in a slump or don’t feel good about yourself, try putting a little mascara on, put your hair into a cute bun and try to feel like a real human being,” Ashley says. “When you don’t take time for yourself on the outside, sometimes it begins to wear yourself on the inside.” Remember, wear makeup and do your hair to make you feel good about yourself, not because of what others may think of you.

7. Don’t wash your hair every day and do make dry shampoo your best friend. Washing and drying your hair every single day is time- and energy-consuming, and if you are blow-drying afterward, you are creating a lot of heat damage. Ashley suggests washing your hair only once or twice a week. “You have to train your hair,” she says.

“If you wash your hair every day, your hair is then trained to produce natural oils every day. You’ll have to go through a phase where you train your hair to go longer without washing and will be extra oily. After about a month or two, your hair will adjust and not create as much oil. Begin with every other day and work your way toward one or two times a week.” Of course, when you do wash your hair, use a shampoo that’s free of parabens and fragrances.

Last but not least, Ashley says the one product every woman needs is a good eye cream! She suggests buying one that contains caffeine to help reduce puffiness and dark circles.

Hear more from Ashley George by checking out Episode 2 of Coffee & Kettlebells. Find out her favorite ways to incorporate health and fitness into her busy lifestyle, why she thinks inner beauty is most important and how to show yourself more self-love.

If you have any questions about the podcast, health, fitness or life in general, always feel free to email coffeeandkettlebells@burnbootcamp.com for answers!